Battleship with star wars ships (with posts attached) 3D for print
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With this set, all of the posts are positioned exactly where they need to be to work with a store bought traditional battleship game. If you print the one where you have to glue on the posts after, you'll have to manage that. However I'm including posts in this set anyway in case some of the posts on your ships are brittle and break. If that happens, you can print a few posts, cut them down to the right size, then superglue them to the end of where the post broke off. Note I'm including standalone posts, but also posts with stabilisers, which makes it easier to successfully print the post. Of course after printed, you would simply remove the stabiliser from the post.
I did not create any of these ships myself, but rather grabbed each of them from various Thingiverse posts. However I put in many, many hours preparing these models for battleship, including sizing, post and peg positioning, peg hole drilling, and I did have to do a fair amount of modelling work (mostly in Meshmixer) to even be able to drill the battleship peg holes without errors, and also to make them printable (IE make them solid rather than having hollow insides).
You'll notice with many of these, the peg holes are not exactly in the center of the battleship squares. This is because most of the ships were thin enough the peg holes go all the way through them, and the posts needed to be centered on the squares. Regardless, it should be pretty easy to tell which holes belong to which coordinates.
Because of the thinness of some of the fins and wings, it's important that in your slicer you set Horizontal Expansion to 0.2 (but don't go any larger than this as it will make the posts too thick).
With the ATAT Walker, you'll notice I have an ATAT Walker and ATAT Walker Short. The short one has thicker legs and will likely print much easier. With the original ATAT Walker, I did get it to print, but I had to glue the legs together in several places. Also with this piece, you'll print the ATAT Post Plate, then superglue this to that. When you do this, be careful to line up the feet so they don't block any holes.
I included a "Print Instructions for Ships With Posts.txt" with the cura settings I used to print the ships.
Designer
Dark Laser3d model description
First, I created two Star Wars Battleship sets. This one has the posts already attached to the ships. The other (here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thi...ng:5585333) has no posts attached to allow a print where the bottom of the ship isn't ugly (if that's important to you), but it also means you have to print the posts separately and glue them on (with superglue).With this set, all of the posts are positioned exactly where they need to be to work with a store bought traditional battleship game. If you print the one where you have to glue on the posts after, you'll have to manage that. However I'm including posts in this set anyway in case some of the posts on your ships are brittle and break. If that happens, you can print a few posts, cut them down to the right size, then superglue them to the end of where the post broke off. Note I'm including standalone posts, but also posts with stabilisers, which makes it easier to successfully print the post. Of course after printed, you would simply remove the stabiliser from the post.
I did not create any of these ships myself, but rather grabbed each of them from various Thingiverse posts. However I put in many, many hours preparing these models for battleship, including sizing, post and peg positioning, peg hole drilling, and I did have to do a fair amount of modelling work (mostly in Meshmixer) to even be able to drill the battleship peg holes without errors, and also to make them printable (IE make them solid rather than having hollow insides).
You'll notice with many of these, the peg holes are not exactly in the center of the battleship squares. This is because most of the ships were thin enough the peg holes go all the way through them, and the posts needed to be centered on the squares. Regardless, it should be pretty easy to tell which holes belong to which coordinates.
Because of the thinness of some of the fins and wings, it's important that in your slicer you set Horizontal Expansion to 0.2 (but don't go any larger than this as it will make the posts too thick).
With the ATAT Walker, you'll notice I have an ATAT Walker and ATAT Walker Short. The short one has thicker legs and will likely print much easier. With the original ATAT Walker, I did get it to print, but I had to glue the legs together in several places. Also with this piece, you'll print the ATAT Post Plate, then superglue this to that. When you do this, be careful to line up the feet so they don't block any holes.
I included a "Print Instructions for Ships With Posts.txt" with the cura settings I used to print the ships.
