Fully printable trapped 2020 hinge 3D for print
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This hinge uses a joint design that's unique to additive manufacturing, you couldn't make ...a hinge like this any other way. It's also sized to fit nicely on a 20XX-style extrusion so the pivot point is right next to the outer edge of the extrusion and will pivot a full 90+ degrees in either direction.
It has M3 holes for mounting which tend to come out at 2.5mm diameter on print, making them suitable for tapping to M3, reaming to 3mm, or using as-is with #4 wood screws, depending on what hardware you have available and what you're mounting to.
There are two version of the hinge available, the normal tolerance version with ~.2mm clearance in the trapped joints, and the looser version with ~.3mm clearance in the trapped joint. A decently calibrated printer should be able to do the normal version without difficulty, but if you end up with a fused joint or don't like how tight the movement is you can always try the looser version instead.
The strength of the hinge will depend on the material it's printed in of course, but printed in PETG I can't make it shift or deform in any dimension in a way that's visible to the naked eye. So it's probably good enough for most non-structural uses.
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Beavertank3d model description
A trapped-joint style hinge that prints as a single piece.This hinge uses a joint design that's unique to additive manufacturing, you couldn't make ...a hinge like this any other way. It's also sized to fit nicely on a 20XX-style extrusion so the pivot point is right next to the outer edge of the extrusion and will pivot a full 90+ degrees in either direction.
It has M3 holes for mounting which tend to come out at 2.5mm diameter on print, making them suitable for tapping to M3, reaming to 3mm, or using as-is with #4 wood screws, depending on what hardware you have available and what you're mounting to.
There are two version of the hinge available, the normal tolerance version with ~.2mm clearance in the trapped joints, and the looser version with ~.3mm clearance in the trapped joint. A decently calibrated printer should be able to do the normal version without difficulty, but if you end up with a fused joint or don't like how tight the movement is you can always try the looser version instead.
The strength of the hinge will depend on the material it's printed in of course, but printed in PETG I can't make it shift or deform in any dimension in a way that's visible to the naked eye. So it's probably good enough for most non-structural uses.
