My mishmash prusa i3 3D for print


 My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers

 My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers
 My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers My mishmash prusa i3  3d model for 3d printers
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Designer

Richard M

3d model description

This is the collection of bits that I've used making my Prusa i3. They worked for me they may work for you too.
So there are a few modifications to v...arious bits.

1. The y-tensioner is my own devising, although I subsequently found others very similar.

2. I also made the bearing holders for the y-axis, I found I didn't have enough clearance without them.

3. I use the M3 thumbwheels to level the heated bed.

4. For the x-tensioner I used an M3 bolt with two small bearings and washers no guides for the belt.

5. For groups of cables I used braided sleeving which kept things clean. I used to use cable chains but found they were too noisy in printing. Also I found running the cable underneath the ramps board kept things relatively neat.

6. I now use a e3d v6 hotend and with a bit of persuasion it fit into the extruder, I may end up replacing this if it causes me issues.

7. While we're on the extruder I reworked the smaller gear to move the nut further towards the motor shaft (maybe a little too close) and closer to the gear so it's on the flat of the shaft. Heat up the M3 nut and insert into the slot and then use an m3 grub screw to attach it the shaft. I found the fit was so tight I had to fit the small gear to the shaft with a G clamp and a little care.

8. For the x-tensioner I used an M6x50 coach bolt I had and just ground the head off until it would fit into the x-idler end. On the outside I put two nuts (one in the block, one for locking off) and put a slot in the end of the bolt with a dremel to tighten the belt.

9. Finally found the z-coupling I used. As part of the "Adapto" printer.

Based on:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/i3-y-idler-with-tensioner

i3 y-idler with tensioner (by me)

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/yet-another-i3-spool-mount

Yet another i3 spool mount (also by me)

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cable-strain-relief-for-i3

Cable strain relief for i3 (still by me)

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:291291

Prusa i3 Rework Extruder Ugrade (by mrice)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:371842

Prusa i3 Hephestos (by bqLabs)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16428

Just another M3 Thumbwheel! (by julianh72)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:85809

i3 reinforced y-motor (by xoan) - I've modified this to increase the corner resolution

http://reprap.org/wiki/Adapto

Adapto (by ROTORIT)

https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla

Belt-guides used (by Josef Prusa)

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/i3-frame-stabilizer-15-35-degrees

i3 frame stabilizer (by me once more)




Tags

Prusa Prusa i3 3d printer

License

CC Atribution

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