Tri-dimensional chess 3D for print
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Wanhao
Printer:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1mm
Infill:
20%
Notes:
I used G...rey, White, and Black PLA filament. I had to scale it 75% of the original design in the slicer program to fit on my 200mmx200mmx180mm printer. <<<<<<<<< IMPORTANT >>>>>>>>> EVERYTHING MUST BE SCALED TO 75% TO PRINT ON A 200mm 3D PRINTER! <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Pieces Needed (Quantity): Grey Filament (1 ea) Base (1 set) Support Arm pieces (five pieces) (4 ea) Attack Board Dowels White Filament (3 ea) Field Boards (4 ea) Attack Boards (8 ea) Pawn (2 ea) Rook (2 ea) Knight (2 ea) Bishop (1 ea) Queen (1 ea) King Black Filament (26 ea) Black Squares (6 ea) Black Corner Squares (8 ea) Pawn (2 ea) Rook (2 ea) Knight (2 ea) Bishop (1 ea) Queen (1 ea) King
Post-Printing
5 Minute Epoxy was used to bond pieces together. Dynatron 650 Glazing and Spot Putty was used to fill and smooth pieces. A Fill and Sand Primer was used to smooth base and support arm then painted with Krylon Metallic Gold spray paint. Aluminlite Clear Cast Epoxy was used to finish the board and pieces. TIps: - TEST FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE BONDING! - Print Base, Support Arm pieces, Attack Board pegs and Attack Board dowels first. The larger pieces take a long time to make and finish. You can finish them while the other pieces print. I used grey PLA. - Print the boards and a set of chess pieces first. This will minimize your time. You can start to finish parts while others are being printed. - Duplicate the Chess pieces in your slicer program to print one job for each kind of piece. Example: Print 8 Pawns at once, print 2 Rooks, etc. - Match fit all Support Arm pieces together BEFORE bonding. Pieces should fit nicely but due to printing variations, some pieces may not fit or align perfect. Sand and test fit them. - Use 5 minute epoxy to join the support arm pieces. Work 1 joint at a time. Try to keep it aligned as straight as possible. Don’t worry if not perfect. - Once epoxy is fully cured on Support Arm, check alignment of the piece. The place where the boards will go should be parallel to each other and should be straight. If not, place in a warm oven (use the warm setting or the lowest it can go) for a few minutes then correct shape. BE CAREFUL AND WATCH IT CLOSELY. It’ll melt your part real fast. You have to work quickly to get the Support Arm into shape before it cools. - While you still have the oven warm, put in the Attack Board Dowels in there for a few and fit to the pegs. They should fit snug when cooling. You’ll have to sand a little to loosen them for a smooth fit. You don’t want any wobble in there. - Lightly sand Black square edges to fit onto Field Board. Use a few drops of superglue to lay them in place. - Bond finished Field Boards one at a time to the Support Arm. Wait until each board is fully cured before moving onto the next. - Lay the board upside down and flat then attach the Support Arm to it. This will greatly help keep things in place while the epoxy cures. - (Optional) Finish everything in epoxy coating. Careful not to coat the peg or inside of the dowels or use too much epoxy on the pieces. A good thin layer of epoxy will give you a smooth, durable, and shiny finish.
How I Designed This
Design
I used AutoDesk Fusion360 to sketch up and fit the design. I printed a few trials to get the Support Arm right since it was the biggest piece and because it needed to be accurate and able to support the boards.
Designer
fso1193d model description
Another Tri-dimensional Chess Board. This is the exact board in the Star Trek Star Fleet Technical Manual (ISBN 0345340744, Ballantine Books 1975, rep...rinted 1986, 1996, 2006) This project will take at least 2 two weeks to print and finish.3d model print parameters
Printer brand:Wanhao
Printer:
Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus
Rafts:
No
Supports:
No
Resolution:
0.1mm
Infill:
20%
Notes:
I used G...rey, White, and Black PLA filament. I had to scale it 75% of the original design in the slicer program to fit on my 200mmx200mmx180mm printer. <<<<<<<<< IMPORTANT >>>>>>>>> EVERYTHING MUST BE SCALED TO 75% TO PRINT ON A 200mm 3D PRINTER! <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Pieces Needed (Quantity): Grey Filament (1 ea) Base (1 set) Support Arm pieces (five pieces) (4 ea) Attack Board Dowels White Filament (3 ea) Field Boards (4 ea) Attack Boards (8 ea) Pawn (2 ea) Rook (2 ea) Knight (2 ea) Bishop (1 ea) Queen (1 ea) King Black Filament (26 ea) Black Squares (6 ea) Black Corner Squares (8 ea) Pawn (2 ea) Rook (2 ea) Knight (2 ea) Bishop (1 ea) Queen (1 ea) King
Post-Printing
5 Minute Epoxy was used to bond pieces together. Dynatron 650 Glazing and Spot Putty was used to fill and smooth pieces. A Fill and Sand Primer was used to smooth base and support arm then painted with Krylon Metallic Gold spray paint. Aluminlite Clear Cast Epoxy was used to finish the board and pieces. TIps: - TEST FIT EVERYTHING BEFORE BONDING! - Print Base, Support Arm pieces, Attack Board pegs and Attack Board dowels first. The larger pieces take a long time to make and finish. You can finish them while the other pieces print. I used grey PLA. - Print the boards and a set of chess pieces first. This will minimize your time. You can start to finish parts while others are being printed. - Duplicate the Chess pieces in your slicer program to print one job for each kind of piece. Example: Print 8 Pawns at once, print 2 Rooks, etc. - Match fit all Support Arm pieces together BEFORE bonding. Pieces should fit nicely but due to printing variations, some pieces may not fit or align perfect. Sand and test fit them. - Use 5 minute epoxy to join the support arm pieces. Work 1 joint at a time. Try to keep it aligned as straight as possible. Don’t worry if not perfect. - Once epoxy is fully cured on Support Arm, check alignment of the piece. The place where the boards will go should be parallel to each other and should be straight. If not, place in a warm oven (use the warm setting or the lowest it can go) for a few minutes then correct shape. BE CAREFUL AND WATCH IT CLOSELY. It’ll melt your part real fast. You have to work quickly to get the Support Arm into shape before it cools. - While you still have the oven warm, put in the Attack Board Dowels in there for a few and fit to the pegs. They should fit snug when cooling. You’ll have to sand a little to loosen them for a smooth fit. You don’t want any wobble in there. - Lightly sand Black square edges to fit onto Field Board. Use a few drops of superglue to lay them in place. - Bond finished Field Boards one at a time to the Support Arm. Wait until each board is fully cured before moving onto the next. - Lay the board upside down and flat then attach the Support Arm to it. This will greatly help keep things in place while the epoxy cures. - (Optional) Finish everything in epoxy coating. Careful not to coat the peg or inside of the dowels or use too much epoxy on the pieces. A good thin layer of epoxy will give you a smooth, durable, and shiny finish.
How I Designed This
Design
I used AutoDesk Fusion360 to sketch up and fit the design. I printed a few trials to get the Support Arm right since it was the biggest piece and because it needed to be accurate and able to support the boards.
