Sir scalesby 3D for print
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Day 68: It's Sir Scalesby, your friendly, low-poly scaling dummy!
I thought it was time to update the scaling model I use (sorry, Sgt., but you... had your time). This guy can be uploaded into whatever slicing program you're using (or 3d Builder, Blender, whatever) and placed beside a model for the ol' eyeball test if you're adjusting the scale before printing or releasing a design.
People tend to get hung up on scale issues, and there's a lot of misinformation out there. You'll notice that the bigger companies don't tend to list a scale for their models (and often won't engage inquiries about scale). Some random thoughts on scale-
Most things aren't 28mm. I know that a lot of models claim to be, and people toss that scale around because it's what they've heard/know, but these days it's pretty uncommon. The majority of miniatures you'll find (3d printed or otherwise) are pretty firmly in the 30 to 32mm range.
"Heroic Scale" isn't a scale. It's a style. It just means that the head and hands are a little larger than they should be. This conveys a slightly cartoonish look that works well with smaller things (making them easily identifiable).
25mm bases aren't an indication of scale. This is just the diameter of the base (about .5mm short of an inch), and it's the most commonly used base dimensions for human-ish models in scales ranging from 25mm to 34mm (especially when using laser cut bases, which are pretty popular). In lots of games, an inch is meant to equate to 5 feet. This really depends on scale of the model though, and if you're looking to design terrain based on those numerics, chances are you'll be disappointed with the result.
Scale isn't determined by the top of the head. It should be. It really should. But, thanks to some hoary old rules, it's based on the eyeline of a regular tall-ish person. You've got all those accurate model scales, like 1/72 and the like, and we probably should be using those, but... this is what we've got.
Don't worry about it too much! If it passes the initial eyeball test, just go with it, especially when you're playing. I generally use models ranging from 28mm to 32mm together, and it's just fine. But, if you are a stickler for these kinds of things, it's lucky that we live in an age where you can scale models easily before you print (and I hope this model helps in your endeavor).
For those of you thinking about supporting us on Patreon, our patrons get special weekly model releases, access to new storefront releases and our entire back catalog, plus licensing options to sell printed versions of our designs.
3D file format: STL
Publication date: 2020/05/25 at 16:32
Designer
Dutchmogul3d model description
Day 68: It's Sir Scalesby, your friendly, low-poly scaling dummy!
I thought it was time to update the scaling model I use (sorry, Sgt., but you... had your time). This guy can be uploaded into whatever slicing program you're using (or 3d Builder, Blender, whatever) and placed beside a model for the ol' eyeball test if you're adjusting the scale before printing or releasing a design.
People tend to get hung up on scale issues, and there's a lot of misinformation out there. You'll notice that the bigger companies don't tend to list a scale for their models (and often won't engage inquiries about scale). Some random thoughts on scale-
Most things aren't 28mm. I know that a lot of models claim to be, and people toss that scale around because it's what they've heard/know, but these days it's pretty uncommon. The majority of miniatures you'll find (3d printed or otherwise) are pretty firmly in the 30 to 32mm range.
"Heroic Scale" isn't a scale. It's a style. It just means that the head and hands are a little larger than they should be. This conveys a slightly cartoonish look that works well with smaller things (making them easily identifiable).
25mm bases aren't an indication of scale. This is just the diameter of the base (about .5mm short of an inch), and it's the most commonly used base dimensions for human-ish models in scales ranging from 25mm to 34mm (especially when using laser cut bases, which are pretty popular). In lots of games, an inch is meant to equate to 5 feet. This really depends on scale of the model though, and if you're looking to design terrain based on those numerics, chances are you'll be disappointed with the result.
Scale isn't determined by the top of the head. It should be. It really should. But, thanks to some hoary old rules, it's based on the eyeline of a regular tall-ish person. You've got all those accurate model scales, like 1/72 and the like, and we probably should be using those, but... this is what we've got.
Don't worry about it too much! If it passes the initial eyeball test, just go with it, especially when you're playing. I generally use models ranging from 28mm to 32mm together, and it's just fine. But, if you are a stickler for these kinds of things, it's lucky that we live in an age where you can scale models easily before you print (and I hope this model helps in your endeavor).
For those of you thinking about supporting us on Patreon, our patrons get special weekly model releases, access to new storefront releases and our entire back catalog, plus licensing options to sell printed versions of our designs.
3D file format: STL
Publication date: 2020/05/25 at 16:32
