Saber 3D for print
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Print all pieces as shown in ..."Assembly.skp" or "Assembly.stl".
Test fit and trim, file, sand, etc. all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces, and tight fit for non moving surfaces. Depending on the colors you chose and your printer settings, more or less trimming, filing and/or sanding will be required.
Assemble as per Assembly.skp (or Assembly.stl).
I started by pressing the two frame halves together ("Frame Left.stl" and "Frame Right.stl") and then one by one, inserted a gear ("Gear.stl") with its associated components (either "Arm Axle.stl", "Cap Axle.stl", or "Cap Axle Eccentric.stl") into the assembled frame and tested each gear assembly as I progressed to make absolutely sure each gear assembly rotated with almost zero effort and zero snags, and if it did not, I removed the most recently installed gear assembly and trimmed, filed, sanded, etc. until it did. Once completed, you should easily be able to spin the entire gear train while holding onto "Cap Motor.stl" and spinning the entire assembly by hand. If not, disassemble and repeat the process, as this is a very important step.
I've also noticed that some of the pins and axle components, when printed on an Ultimaker 2, don't want to stay in their respective sockets (this thing was designed for a Replicator 2 which does not have the accuracy of the Ultimaker 2). I'll work to increase the dimensions of these components, but for a current solution, apply a small dot of thick cyanoacrylate glue to one surface of the hexagonal pin, let it cure (a shot of accelerant speeds this process), then replace it.
Another very important step, pay very exact attention to the initial orientation of the components "Cap Axle Eccentric.stl" and "Arm Axle.stl" as shown in "Assembly.skp" or "Assembly.stl" within the gear train for both sides, as these orientations are critical to the Saber motions, alignment and clearances.
Lubricate all moving components with petroleum jelly.
Wire the motor such that it rotates counter clockwise as viewed from the motor shaft.
My Sabers runs anywhere from 1.5 to 6 VDC. It was designed for use with the selected motor at 3 VDC which minimizes noise while providing good motion. For break in, after lubrication, I ran my prototypes for 2 hours at 6 VDC, then lowered the voltage to 3.0 VDC. They've been running for over a week now at 3 VDC.
Comment if questions, and best of luck with this one!
UPDATES:
1) I've uploaded a corrected "Head Right.stl". Sorry for any problems this has created.
UPDATE: SABER.ZIP contains all Sketches design files I could locate.
2) Coaxial Power Jack: Radio Shack part n...umber 274-1583.
3) 3.0 Vdc Power Supply: Radio Shack part number 273-315 with the "N" style plug 273-345, you get one free with the power supply.
Designer
Greg Zumwalt3d model description
A Saber Tooth Tiger automata inspired by the "Disney Computation Designs of Mechanical Characters" "Cyber Tiger" video.Print all pieces as shown in ..."Assembly.skp" or "Assembly.stl".
Test fit and trim, file, sand, etc. all parts as necessary for smooth movement of moving surfaces, and tight fit for non moving surfaces. Depending on the colors you chose and your printer settings, more or less trimming, filing and/or sanding will be required.
Assemble as per Assembly.skp (or Assembly.stl).
I started by pressing the two frame halves together ("Frame Left.stl" and "Frame Right.stl") and then one by one, inserted a gear ("Gear.stl") with its associated components (either "Arm Axle.stl", "Cap Axle.stl", or "Cap Axle Eccentric.stl") into the assembled frame and tested each gear assembly as I progressed to make absolutely sure each gear assembly rotated with almost zero effort and zero snags, and if it did not, I removed the most recently installed gear assembly and trimmed, filed, sanded, etc. until it did. Once completed, you should easily be able to spin the entire gear train while holding onto "Cap Motor.stl" and spinning the entire assembly by hand. If not, disassemble and repeat the process, as this is a very important step.
I've also noticed that some of the pins and axle components, when printed on an Ultimaker 2, don't want to stay in their respective sockets (this thing was designed for a Replicator 2 which does not have the accuracy of the Ultimaker 2). I'll work to increase the dimensions of these components, but for a current solution, apply a small dot of thick cyanoacrylate glue to one surface of the hexagonal pin, let it cure (a shot of accelerant speeds this process), then replace it.
Another very important step, pay very exact attention to the initial orientation of the components "Cap Axle Eccentric.stl" and "Arm Axle.stl" as shown in "Assembly.skp" or "Assembly.stl" within the gear train for both sides, as these orientations are critical to the Saber motions, alignment and clearances.
Lubricate all moving components with petroleum jelly.
Wire the motor such that it rotates counter clockwise as viewed from the motor shaft.
My Sabers runs anywhere from 1.5 to 6 VDC. It was designed for use with the selected motor at 3 VDC which minimizes noise while providing good motion. For break in, after lubrication, I ran my prototypes for 2 hours at 6 VDC, then lowered the voltage to 3.0 VDC. They've been running for over a week now at 3 VDC.
Comment if questions, and best of luck with this one!
UPDATES:
1) I've uploaded a corrected "Head Right.stl". Sorry for any problems this has created.
UPDATE: SABER.ZIP contains all Sketches design files I could locate.
3d model print parameters
1) Motor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009N81HES?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00.2) Coaxial Power Jack: Radio Shack part n...umber 274-1583.
3) 3.0 Vdc Power Supply: Radio Shack part number 273-315 with the "N" style plug 273-345, you get one free with the power supply.
![Stitch [Lilo and Stitch]](https://www.3dforprint.com/modelos/59/stitch-lilo-and-stitch6_medium.png)
